The Seven Wonders Of Willunga: The Best Little Town In South Australia

We’ve teamed up with SA Tourism’s Through Local Eyes campaign to explore and celebrate unique approaches to life and culture in South Australia. 

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We all think we know about South Australia, but this whole time the state has been hiding an absolute gem of a small town that’s perfect for a breather, just a 50-minute scenic drive away: bespoke, beautiful and crammed with stuff to do, Willunga is the kind of coastline you’d drive hundreds of kilometres to see.

Last year, after finishing a brutal run at Adelaide Fringe — burnt out, and hung over — a friend decided to drive me out of town, to help me recover before I returned to Melbourne. We somehow ended up in Willunga — and it was so idyllic it felt like a fever dream.

For the past 18 months, I’ve kept this place up my sleeve to impress people with; the geographical equivalent of awarding someone a mix CD full of bands they’ll be obsessed with forever. At risk of spoiling the spot for myself, here’s seven reasons why you should visit.

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1: Port Willunga Beach

Ever been to a Sydney beach and been jammed in the water like a sardine, grumbling at the lack of personal space? Me too. As far as beautiful beaches go, Willunga has the market cornered.

Port Willunga is considered by locals to be one of the greatest beaches in the world, without the crowds. My afternoon there was so stupidly blissful I had to get pulled away somewhat forcefully.

Much like this dog.

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2: Cycling

Cycling in Australia’s big cities can be a headache – literally, if you get stuck between two idling trucks (which happens more than cyclists care to admit). There’s none of that in Willunga.

Cycle from the Southern Adelaide suburb of Marino to Willunga, using the Coast To Vines Rail Trail; after following an old rail vine, you’ll explode (not literally) out into the scenic McLaren Vale wine region, before easing into Willunga proper. If you need a rental, the folks at Oxygen Cycles will sort you out, and their rates are pretty decent too.

The town also hosts stage five of the Tour Down Under race, so if you time it right you can watch the racers sprint to the top of Willunga Hill from a deck chair, as you eat a tub of full-fat ice cream.

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3: Farmer’s Markets

There are few better ways to fall in love with a town than by eating what grows there, and the Willunga Farmers Market is famous — not just for its produce and atmosphere, but for the fact that it was the first farmers market to be established in South Australia.

Held every single Saturday in the Willunga Town Square, they pride themselves on not letting weather stop them. You’ll experience more than sixty stalls selling fresh produce from the region’s farms; grab an organic woodfired sourdough loaf from the Beach Organics stall, or try some of the produce from the Willunga Olive Farm. If you impulse-buy a bag of carrots from Harts Vegetables (right near the entrance to the markets), I highly recommend leaving them in the driver’s seat of your mate’s car and attempting to pass them off as petrol money.

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4: Russell’s Pizza

I was in New York last year, and went on a bit of a pizza tour – pretty much so I could come back and complain to everyone about how no Australian pizza was as good as Lombardi’s. And then suddenly I’m at Russell’s, inhaling their pizzas.

This place is a bit of an institution, housed inside an 1800s-era stone cottage, with a converted tin shed and a gorgeous outdoor area. It’s also frequently packed with effusive locals, who’ll happily recommend what to try — the lamb pizza is a must.

If pizza’s not your thing, there’s more gourmet fare over at Fino — the grilled eel, apple and witlof sent us both into a food coma.

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5: Fleurieu Folk Festival

Every October, the award winning Fleurieu Folk Festival kicks off, featuring local and international acts. Not into folk music? Well you’re at a folk festival, dummy! You’re all hopped up on local produce and wine from the McLaren Vale region! You’re wearing no shoes, and an ‘I Suddenly Love Folk Music’ sticker! They don’t even sell those here! You ARE into folk music!

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6: McLaren Vale Wines

The best wines Australia has to offer come from the wineries around Willunga; the area is especially renowned for its dry reds. Even those who don’t get wine get wine from the spectacular vineyards nearby.

Not sure which of the many award-winning wineries to head to? We took the Shiraz Trail, a bike trail that follows a series of historic railway tracks through the McLaren Vale region, direct from Willunga. We ended up at the d’Arenberg vineyard, drinking the best merlot we’d ever had. We tried to bring some back for friends, but it mysteriously disappeared.

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7: Port Willunga Cottages

By this point, you’re in love with Willunga. It’s just the right mix of artisanal and quaint, and you’ve spent plenty of time wandering through the markets, winding down bike trails, and drinking wine you got for other people that you will never tell them about. Time to rest your weary legs, full belly and slightly wine-drunk head.

If you’re looking to hit up Willunga with your partner and maybe some friends, check out Port Willunga Cottages: there’s one near the beach, one near McLaren Vale, and one in town. We chose the latter, Citrus Cottage: a 140-year-old settler’s cottage that’s been converted into a two-bedroom B&B, filled with gorgeous trappings and an actual open fireplace.

It’s also pretty close to Russell’s Pizza, which means yay pizza.

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Paul Verhoeven is a Jim Henson’s Creature Workshop creation. He hosts Save Point, writes for TheVine, and is a presenter on Triple J, and tweets from@PaulVerhoeven.