Here’s Why Everyone Is Worried Olaplex Will Be Banned
A viral TikTok claimed the product was being banned in the EU and UK - but that's not really what's going on.
Everyone’s favourite haircare brand Olaplex has gone viral after one of its ingredients was linked to infertility.
But contrary to information that has since been rapidly shared on social media, Olaplex isn’t being banned — and the situation is not as concerning as first thought.
Olaplex No. 3 — the company’s best-selling product — has gone viral after it was revealed that the product’s original formula contained a fragrance compound called butylphenyl methylpropional (lilial), which has been banned for cosmetic use in the EU from March 2022 due to fertility concerns.
The whole situation kicked off after TikTok user Hasini Kay made a video about Olaplex reportedly being banned in the EU and UK from March.
@hasinikay No bc why is 2022 like this already? #olaplex #damagedhair #curlygirl #curlyhair #curlyhairproblems #curlyhairproducts ♬ original sound – lounginwithtony
She quickly made a follow-up video explaining the situation — and the fact that Olaplex would likely just reformulate the product — but as we’ve seen many times before, the false information had already spread like wildfire before she added context.
@hasinikay Reply to @rat_bastard why current olaplex formulas are being banned #olaplex #damagedhair #curlyhair #curlygirl #curlyhairproblems ♬ original sound – Hasini Kay
So what exactly is lilial, and what is going on with Olaplex? Let’s explain.
What Is Lilial And What’s So Bad About It?
Butylphenyl methylpropional — or lilial — is a chemical compound that is often used to add fragrance to a number of products — including hair and beauty items.
The ingredient was officially banned in the EU on March 1, 2022 and — as a result — will be removed from all cosmetic products sold in EU countries. The ban comes after the European Commission published a report in May 2020, which listed butylphenyl methylpropional as “reprotoxic” — which means it is toxic for reproduction and could impact fertility.
According to Allure, lilial can act as an endocrine disruptor — not unlike other chemicals like parabens and BPA.
“Endocrine disruptors are chemicals that may mimic or interfere with the body’s hormones,” reproductive endocrinologist Trisha Shah, M.D., told Allure. “This interference can impact both male and female reproductive systems by potentially causing sub-fertility, infertility, improper hormone production, or perhaps menstrual cycle abnormalities.”
But while it has been banned in the EU, lilial is still listed on the Australian inventory of industrial chemicals with no restrictions, which means it can still be included in products sold here.
However, it’s worth noting that most brands — at least the ones that want to sell in the EU (a huge market) — follow their regulations. But while the ingredient has been banned out of an abundance of caution, it’s important to note that the study on lilial was based on rats ingesting high quantities of lilial — not humans using a small amount in their hair routine.
“First off, this ban has been going on for a while. The EU cosmetic safety report that analysed the data was released in May 2019. The only reason it’s hitting headlines now is because the deadline to stop using it is March 2022, so it isn’t like it’s so dangerous they’re rushing to get it off the shelves,” cosmetic chemist Dr Michelle Wong said on Instagram.
According to findings in the report, even if you’re using 15 different products that contain lilial on a daily basis, you would still only be receiving 1/80th of the dose needed to show negative fertility impacts in rats.
While it’s important to be cautious, especially when it comes to your health and fertility, it’s worth recognising that the Olaplex No 3. you’ve already used in your life is almost certainly not enough to have impacted your fertility — based on what we know from this study.
Is Olaplex The Only Brand Using Lilial?
The interesting thing about this whole situation is that Olaplex has really copped the worst of it, despite being one of thousands of products that use lilial. The ingredient adds a fresh lily scent to products, and is included in countless cleansers, hair products, perfumes and other cosmetic items.
Chances are, if you look in your bathroom right now, you’ll find at least a few products containing lilial. It is also in a bunch of cleaning products and other household items, but these will not be impacted by the EU’s new regulation as they don’t fall under the cosmetics umbrella.
As for why Olaplex — in particular — was named and shamed for it, considering how common of an ingredient it is, your guess is as good as mine, but it probably has something to do with it being such a cult-fave product.
Does Olaplex Still Use Lilial?
Following the viral videos, Olaplex has confirmed to GLAMOUR that Olaplex No 3. will not be discontinued, and has already had the ingredient phased out.
“In September 2020, the EU regulatory authority announced their intent to [have] Butylphenyl methylpropional commonly referred to as “lilial” phased out by March of 2022. At Olaplex, lilial was previously used in small amounts as a fragrance in No. 3 Hair Perfector. It is not an active or functional ingredient. While this phase out is limited to the EU, out of an abundance of caution, Olaplex proactively removed lillial from our No.3 Hair Perfector globally. Since January 2022, Olaplex no longer sold products using Lillial in the UK or EU,” said Olaplex in a statement.
The company also released a video on Instagram earlier this week, with Olaplex Chief Scientist Lavinia Popescu explaining exactly what is going on.
When asked why the company was using the ingredient in the first place, Olaplex explained that it is “not an active or functional ingredient.”
It is not an active or functional ingredient. While this phase out is limited to the EU, out of an abundance of caution, Olaplex proactively removed lillial from our No.3 Hair Perfector globally. Since January 2022, Olaplex no longer sold products using Lillial in the UK or EU.
— Olaplex (@olaplex) February 28, 2022
What If My Olaplex No. 3 Contains Lilial?
While the ingredient has been phased out internationally, there are still some older batches of Olaplex No. 3 floating around stores — so there’s a chance you may still pick up a bottle containing lilial.
“There are so many worse things to freak out about right now, take this off your plate and save some cortisol for all the other calamities,” said Dr Wong on Instagram.
It is unlikely that finishing off your current bottle will impact your fertility whatsoever, but customers have been urged to contact Olaplex if they have any concerns.