Leave The City Behind And Hit The Mesmerising Outdoors of Kyushu, Japan  

After the neon of Shinjuku and laneways of Osaka, my sense of adventure longed for a more off-beat and outdoorsy Japan. For this, I ventured to Kyushu, Japan’s third-largest island home to a wealth of sacred landmarks and geological wonders, including some of the country’s most active volcanoes.

 

Seeking Shrines in Fukuoka
From the depths of the holiest mountain to the back of a convenience store, as long as you’re in Japan: you’re never far from a shrine or temple.  

Kyushu is no exception – in fact, it is considered one of Japan’s most preeminent spiritual hubs. My highlight during the trip was the Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine on the outskirts of Fukuoka City, an enormous complex encircled by tranquil gardens, forested hills, and quaint streetscapes. These ancient grounds brim with treasures steeped in Japanese history, including a bronze statue of the mythical kirin beast, rumoured to be the inspiration behind Kirin Beer. 

Complementing the vermillion Shinto architecture was vast parkland and forest inviting me to aimlessly roam and bask in the wisdom of giant, ancient cedar trees. Feeling thoroughly invigorated, I wandered back to civilisation at the shrine road to again lose myself amongst rows of tantalising eateries, including coffee at a swanky Starbucks tastefully designed by legendary architect Kengo Kuma. 

Streetside Dining in Tenjin
For the locals of Fukuoka, dinnertime is served on the streets. Once darkness sets in, the sleek central business district of Tenjin becomes cluttered with tent-like yatai stalls serving up starving businesspeople and travellers alike with hearty, wholesome regional cuisine.  

While I hesitated to brush through the flap and step in, it was clear from the warm, boisterous chatter inside that all were welcome. Here the chef has the dual role of both entertainer and conversation-starter, encouraging intermingling between patrons while cooking up a storm right before your eyes.  

Volcano Hiking at Mt. Aso
Mt. Aso, one of Japan’s most active volcanoes, is the pinnacle of Kyushu’s dynamic topography. As an avid hiker, the thought of escaping the city to explore this smouldering, rugged terrain was irresistible. While recent volcanic activity has rendered the better viewpoints off-limits, there were still loads of trails treating me to jaw-dropping panoramas of the smoking crater and dramatic landscape to scratch my adventurous itch. 

Hot Spring Hopping in Kurokawa Onsen
After traversing the mountains of Aso, my tired feet and frazzled body were begging for the warm, mineral-rich waters of the nearby Kurokawa Onsen. Often overshadowed by Japan’s better-known hot springs, Kurokawa Onsen remains an isolated hidden gem yet to find the limelight. 

Best of all, using Kurokawa Onsen’s “hopping pass,” I was able to take a well-deserved dip in three local hot springs out of a generous selection of 28. While it was difficult to choose, I settled on the majestic cave baths of Shinmeikan, the vast, open-air thermal pools of Yamabiko, and the rustic, wooden valley-side tubs of Nishimura.

Getting Off-Road in Takachiho Gorge
Longing to further myself from the tourist trail, I continued my journey into the mountains of Miyazaki. Within this remote region lies Takachiho, a land steeped in Japanese mythology. One of the most notable attractions here is Amanoyasukawara, a small shrine which is inconspicuously nestled in a secluded cavern believed to be where the gods gathered to plan how to lure the sun goddess out from hiding.  

Takachiho is also the origin of the ancient kagura dance, with performances given at shrines all over Japan. While I missed the opportunity to view the nightly kagura at Takachiho Shrine, I was instead able to get up close and personal with this profound tradition through a ceramic kagura mask painting workshop at Gohogama, a celebrated local potter and eatery perched on the side of the gorge. 

Aside from shrines, the centrepiece of Takachiho is Takachiho Gorge; an idyllic turquoise river cut through rock born from ancient eruptions at Mt. Aso. Utterly captivated by the surreal hues and symmetrical rock walls, I was able to take in this wonder multiple times through a leisurely stroll on the walking track, a laid-back cruise on a rowboat, and even again at night during the enchanting after-dark light-up.  

Unwinding at Suizenji Jojuen Garden
I followed up the sweeping grasslands of Aso and the thick jungle of Takachiho with a visit to the painstakingly manicured Suizenji Jojuen in Kumamoto City. The design of this picturesque garden complex is meant to resemble the 53 Stations of the Tokaido, an ancient road that ran from Tokyo to Kyoto. Each element was a sensory delight – from the alluring aromas of plum and cherry trees to the refined flavour of traditional confectionery and diverse scenery, including a miniature Mt. Fuji. 

Even a gardening novice like me could appreciate the scope of this masterpiece. 

Unlike the other activities I experienced, visiting Suizenji was all about relaxation. I relished my final day in Kyushu napping on a grassy lawn, watching lethargic carp and crumb-hungry ducks, and slowly sipping on a bowl of matcha at the teahouse. A fitting conclusion to my outdoor adventure in Kyushu!  

Lead Image: Tanaka Juuyoh / Flickr 

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Steven Csorgo was a guest of Japan National Tourism Organization 

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