Hiking Kyushu’s Volcanic Hot Spring Paradise Means World-Class Beef And Awesome Onsen

Located in Kumamoto Prefecture, Kyushu, Mount Aso is the largest inhabited active volcanic crater in the world. Crowned by one of Japan’s most active volcanoes, this surprisingly idyllic, rustic township is home to a geological wonderland of smouldering caverns, cone-shaped volcanoes, and mountains so jagged they could easily fill in as the next Mordor. Brimming with geothermal waters, rows of laneways lined by Miyazaki-esque bathhouses also flourished around Mt. Aso — as did an industry of salivate-inducing wagyu cuisine! 

Volcano Hiking For All Levels
On my first day of hiking, I take in Mt. Aso and the five inner peaks of Mt. Neko, Mt. Taka, Mt. Naka, Mt. Eboshi, and Mt. Kishima. This peculiar landscape was born through a series of massive eruptions 90,000-300,000 years ago, resulting in the underground magma being drained and the land sinking in dramatic fashion. Have your camera handy, folks, because you’ll be reaching for it quite a bit.  

Scenic hiking routes crisscross this entire region suiting a wide range of walkers and timeframes. Because there is so much information to take in, I end up grabbing the latest hiking data at the charismatic Aso Volcano Museum (which also showcases the region’s history), or you can also do this at the Aso Sanjo Terminal. Take note: due to volcanic hazards, it’s always best to check in with the official Aso website before making any plans! 

One of the most popular tracks brings hikers to the summit of Mt. Naka (Naka-dake) —Mt. Aso’s most active volcanic crater. After a hefty and inspiring climb, you’ll witness close-up views of emerald-green water — however, increases in volcanic activity have currently rendered it off-limits. Don’t be put off, though. The trail remains worth hiking in its own right, and you’ll still get to see plenty of white smoke rising ominously from the mountain as you stride this Tolkienesque backdrop. 

I opt to hike Mt. Taka (Taka-dake), Mt. Aso’s highest peak, generally taking half a day to climb. For those short on time — and fitness — Mt. Eboshi (Eboshi-dake) has a less-intense two-hour trail that doesn’t scrimp on views of the Mt. Naka crater. During any of your walks, keep an eye out for the perfectly symmetrical cone-shaped mini-volcano Komezuka too.  

After a long day of traversing the inner mountains, I find myself at the outer rim for an all-encompassing panorama of the five peaks and accompanying plains. The highest point of the outer edge is the Daikanbo Lookout: rewarding the clearest views. Once your jaw’s done dropping (mine did), descend into the caldera to wander the streets of Aso Shrine for authentic and nostalgic Showa era charm. 

Hot Springs Straight Out of a Miyazaki Flick
With a history steeped in volcanic activity, it’s only natural for Mt. Aso to host a wealth of natural hot springs. While there’s plenty dotting the crater itself, one of the rising stars in the highly esteemed Japanese hot spring world is the neighbouring Kurokawa Onsen. 

With semi weary feet, like me, you’ll probably think a bit of R & R sounds fantastic right now. Just a 30-minute drive from Aso City, Kurokawa Onsen is a whimsical hot spring haven nestled within a steep valley straddling the Tanoharu River. This resort town is favoured for its lavish “rotenburo” open-air baths, which allow fatigued hikers to heal in nourishing, mineral-rich waters enveloped by lush greenery. Each hot spring flaunts its unique appeal, from the rustic and quirky to the ritzy and glamorous.

Once Kyushu’s best-kept secret, Kurokawa Onsen has blossomed into a nationwide legend thanks to a clever rebranding as Japan’s “one spring town.” Cleverly, this onsen acts as a single integrated bath through a universal “hopping pass.” Once I’ve purchased the elegant wooden pass at the central Kazenoya Information Centre for 1,300 yen (around $15 AUD), I now have my pick of three hot springs from a selection of 28. One of the most coveted is Shinmeikan, the grandfather of Kurokawa. And whilst boasting a majestic cave bath, other popular choices are the nature-filled Yamabiko and the cosy, intimate Nishimura. 

An Underrated Foodie Destination
After all the calories you’ve burned off, it’s only fitting you should be looking to reward your tastebuds. Blessed with fertile ground and pristine water, Aso is one of the few places in Japan where you can witness cattle roaming freely on pastures throughout the plains. 

You can get your lips around both through a variety of dishes — best of all; local prices are extraordinarily reasonable. The highlight for me must be the renowned wagyu restaurant Hanabishi near Aso Shrine serving up an Akaushi beef bowl for just 1,650 yen! (around $20 AUD) — so good I ended up going twice.

With dramatic 360-degree panoramas, it struck me on one of the many hikes that this overflowing, formidable terrain — far from major train stations — surely makes Mt. Aso remains one of Japan’s most untouched regions. Kurokawa Onsen, for example, is so remote that it was only just included on a local map 20 years ago! Still, for those who have already conquered the golden route and seek a new frontier of Japan to explore, Mt. Aso and its surroundings are the ultimate destinations to unleash your inner explorer. 

Lead image courtesy of Japan National Tourism Organization

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Steven Csorgo was a guest of Japan National Tourism Organization.